Chanel SS25: A Flutter of Feathers and Freedom
With feathered designs and cage-like motifs, Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 show captured the spirit of freedom and elegance, echoing Gabrielle Chanel’s refusal to be confined.
Images courtesy of Chanel
This season, Chanel staged its Spring-Summer 2025 show at the Grand Palais, the historic exhibition hall where, for decades, the maison had presented its collections until the venue closed for refurbishments in 2021.
At the heart of its Nave was a great white birdcage; at its center, an empty swing. The Palais itself transformed into a cage of sorts, its glass vaults and steel frames filled with all kinds of colorful birds who’d gathered to view Chanel’s vision for the summer ahead.
The show notes quoted Gabrielle Chanel: “People have always wanted to put me in cages: cages with cushions stuffed with promises, gilded cages, cages that I’ve touched looking away from. I never wanted any other than the one I would build myself.”
A cage motif repeated throughout the collection – in the silhouette of lace dresses and skirts; in small bags carried by models – as did bird references. There were feathery cuffs and collars, feathers on sunglasses and feathered earrings, a feather print on flowing dresses and jumpsuits and feathery fringing on dresses, jackets, trousers and long muslin capes.
Rather than constructing a cage of one’s own, as Chanel’s quote implied, the show proposed doing away with cages altogether, dressing instead in light, delicate clothing that conveys a sense of freedom.
The show, which began with the twangy guitars of Barry White’s “I’m Gonna Love You Just A Little More Baby,” ended with Riley Keogh singing “When Doves Cry” live, suspended mid-air on the cage’s giant swing while the models gathered at its base. They collectively paused, then off they flew.