Courrèges SS25: To Reveal or To Conceal?
Nicolas Di Felice’s collection toyed with duality, offering women the power to balance between mystery and exposure through asymmetrical, bold designs.
Images courtesy of Courrèges
Now you see her; now you don’t. At the center of Courrèges’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a woman pulled between two conflicting instincts: whether to reveal herself or keep herself hidden. She may desire to dress in a way that makes herself unrecognizable; then, at another moment, she wants to be wholly visible.
The first look of the collection fell into the “unrecognizable” category. A model was enveloped in a black leather cape shaped like a chrysalis, her arms within the cocoon, her face obscured by large visor sunglasses. Subsequent models were far more exposed, including those with tops resembling censorship bars, covering nothing but their breasts
There were instances where the impulse to hide or expose occurred simultaneously: jackets in which one arm was covered by a sleeve while the other was bare. Asymmetrical culottes where one leg was visible, the other hidden beneath fabric. The final looks were long dresses that covered models from their chests to the floor, only for them to turn and reveal their exposed backs. Artistic director Nicolas Di Felice’s clothing gives women the means to control how the world perceives them.