From Temple to Table with Shojin-Ryori

This feature was originally published in March 2024 in Mastermind 15 – buy all issues here.

The enticing aroma of fried taro and kombu wafts through the air as small plates of intricate food line the restaurant table. They hold an array of uncommon delights: turnip umami soup, daikon spring rolls, burdock sushi. Such are the dishes at Sougo, a restaurant in the Roppongi district of Tokyo, which offers diners a contemporary interpretation of the age-old Buddhist vegetarian cuisine known as shojin-ryori.

As dietary preferences continue to evolve, chefs across Japan are reimagining shojin-ryori, aiming to captivate a broader and younger audience. As more individuals adopt vegan or plant-based lifestyles, shojin-ryori stands out as an Asian plant-based cuisine experiencing a renaissance not just in its native country but also all around the world. From wellness programs at high-end hotels to the kitchens of Michelin-star restaurants, chefs are finding ways to incorporate and modernize the cooking style for a new audience.

“I aim to surprise and satisfy solely with vegetables,” declares Daisuke Nomura, owner and chef of Sougo, from a private room in his eatery on a warm winter afternoon. With the 42-seat restaurant nearly full, bowls of crispy maitake rice prompt conversation between diners seated next to each other at the counter.

“The principles of shojin-ryori teach us to respect and have gratitude toward all the life that we consume,” says Nomura. “No killing” is a Buddhist precept, and he also avoids waste, making sure to use all parts of a vegetable: in the stock, as garnish, or pickled and served as a side.

Born into a temple family, Nomura grew up steeped in traditional shojin cuisine, which paved the way for his culinary journey. Following his tenure at his family’s Michelin-star restaurant Daigo, he opened his own restaurant in 2015. Intending to craft a more approachable dining space than typical, formal shojin restaurants, Nomura created an inviting haven, and over the past decade he has witnessed a surge in patrons, both local and international, drawn to Sougo’s cuisine and ambiance.

The origins of shojin-ryori are said to date back to as early as the sixth century, coinciding with Japan’s introduction to Buddhism, and the cuisine was brought to Japan through China and Korea. The term “shojin” denotes devotion or diligence, while “ryori” means cooking. The name represents a cuisine aimed at heightened awareness. It gained momentum and started to flourish in the 13th century when the monk Dogen, founder of the Soto school of Zen Buddhism, played a pivotal role in its dissemination.

Shojin food is made without any meat, fish or dairy products, and focuses on locally sourced vegetables, embodying the essence of ichiju sansai (“one soup and three dishes,” the traditional components of a Japanese meal), although contemporary renditions may deviate from this structure. The five pungent vegetables – garlic, onion, green onions, chives and leeks – are avoided. This underlines the shojin commitment to simplicity, balance and the use of seasonal ingredients. In keeping with codes of traditional Japanese cuisine, every meal includes go-shoku (five colors): red, yellow, green, black and white; go-ho (five cooking techniques): raw, boiled, streamed, fried and grilled; and go-mi (five flavors): sweet, salty, sour, spicy and bitter.

Part of chef Nomura’s mission is to challenge and reshape the misperception that shojin-ryori is bland or limited, made from dull and visually unappealing vegetables. He infuses creativity and vibrancy into the culinary narrative. On some days, Nomura mixes beets into miso, resulting in a captivating pink paste; on others, he gently rolls noodles out of bean sprouts and zucchini. His meticulous focus on colors and plating makes for a magnetic force that entices customers to return.

When a fresh batch of persimmons arrive at the restaurant, Nomura seamlessly swaps them into the seasonal fruit sorbet for dessert. Unafraid to explore beyond Japanese vegetables, he also in- corporates new seasonings, adding a dynamic twist to his creations.

Kamakura-based Mari Fujii, author of Enlightened Kitchen: Fresh Vegetable Dishes from the Temples of Japan, believes “shojin” will become a household term in the English language, just like “umami” and “sushi.” A shojin teacher for over 30 years, she shows individuals how to recreate these dishes in their own homes, both in Japan and abroad. Fujii’s husband, a monk, initiated her into the world of shojin; he died in 2006, but she remains committed to sharing her culinary wisdom.

Fujii envisions widespread recognition of shojin cuisine, in part because Japanese food is generally seen as healthy, and with its popularity comes an interest in new iterations of the cuisine. In addition, she says, growing awareness that we live in an aging society has made many people more health-conscious and interested in shojin. One example is Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm, owner of the three-star Michelin restaurant Eleven Madison Park in New York City, who caused a stir in the culinary world in 2021 when he decided to transform the establishment, once famous for its duck and seafood, with an entirely plant-based menu, an unprecedented move for a luxury restaurant of its stature.

In announcing this change, Humm told The Wall Street Journal that the coronavirus pandemic had made him realize that “our practices of animal production, what we’re doing to the oceans, the amount we consume” are not sustainable, and that in order to truly be at the forefront of culinary innovation, shifting to a plant-based menu was “the only place to go next.”

Humm enlisted the expertise of Toshio Tanahashi, a shojin chef based in Okinawa, to help inspire new menu items. Their collaborative effort spanned 40 days, marked by mornings dedicated to grinding sesame to make the shojin staple, goma tofu, followed by lessons on fundamental shojin cooking. The inaugural menu of the newly reopened restaurant included tomburi, a vital ingredient of Akita-style Buddhist shojin cuisine. This delicate fruit is harvest- ed from the summer cypress bush, and its tiny green-gray beads resemble caviar. It added another touch of sophistication to the restaurant’s plant-based offerings.

Various chefs hold different perspectives on what sets shojin-ryori apart from other vegan or vegetarian cuisines, beyond its history. Some chefs emphasize the necessity for seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, prioritizing the preservation of natural flavors. Others argue that this cuisine is rooted in minimizing waste, while some place the spotlight on gratitude and the profound respect inherent in the cooking process.

For Tanahashi, bringing the essence of shojin to Humm’s New York restaurant extended beyond incorporating traditional ingredients; he made sure to share with Humm the ethos of local sourcing. Shojin is not only a culinary tradition with technicalities that must be upheld in order for a dish to qualify as such but also an ever-changing reflection of mindfulness.

For Nomura, shojin doesn’t just mean abstaining from meat. He emphasizes that the essence of shojin lies in a “daily practice of gratitude, thankfulness and a commitment to avoiding wastefulness.” Asked if his patrons understand what differentiates shojin from other vegetarian cuisines, Nomura shrugs. “Does it really matter?” he asks. Making a shojin dish is “a loving game of catch” between the chef, the customer, the vegetables and the spirit of the cuisine itself, he says. It doesn’t matter how people get introduced to shojin, only that they do. “The most beautiful dishes are those anyone can enjoy,” Nomura says.