Gucci Cruise 2025: Night at the Art Museum

In his debut cruise collection for Gucci, Sabato De Sarno combined workwear fabrics and couture techniques to create practical romance.

The Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall is a great empty vessel which artists fill with their dreams. Over the years, the space has hosted many remarkable contemporary art installations: in 2003, Olafur Eliasson’s enormous glowing sun illuminated the hall; Ai Weiwei filled the space with millions of ceramic sunflower seeds in 2010. More recently, the chamber was draped with El Anatsui’s formidable metal curtain, fragments of bottle tops and scraps stitched into a great cloak.

Last night, it was Gucci’s turn to reinvent the site, which served as the venue for its Cruise 2025 show. In an Instagram post, creative director Sabato De Sarno quoted Yoko Ono: “A dream you dream alone is only a dream. A dream you dream together is reality.” Such was the spirit that filled the museum’s halls.

The show was staged across two rooms in the Tate’s subterranean Tanks space. The first, with its hefty concrete beams, amplified the venue’s brutalist architecture, whereas nature had taken hold of the second. Mossy patches sprouted from the ground, trees punctuated the space and leafy vines dangled from its ceiling.

Courtesy of Gucci

De Sarno’s debut cruise collection for Gucci mirrored this hard-versus-soft dichotomy. Leather jackets and trousers in Gucci’s signature ancora red were softened by the peep of a chiffon pussy bow. A flowing plissé skirt in teal, its long tail dragging along the floor, emerged from beneath a structured leather jacket in the same color. Jeans featured long, beaded strands which danced as the model walked. Delicate 3D-printed daisies, hand-stitched into a long skirt, were styled with a blue denim workwear top. Jackets and coats jangled with embellishments and embroideries stitched in a tartan pattern. This combination of workwear fabrics and couture techniques created a certain practical romance.

In the show’s press notes, De Sarno said: “I like taking something that we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as it can go, without ever distorting it. Bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony.”

Courtesy of Gucci

The soundtrack included a string rendition of Blondie’s “Heart of Glass,” which was fitting since the collection reintroduced the Blondie bag, which came in an enormous version, emblazoned with the Gucci logo. Blondie’s Debbie Harry was in attendance, alongside Dua Lipa, Paul Mescal, Solange, Daisy Edgar Jones, Stray Kids’ Lee Know, and Demi Moore, who brought her tiny dog, Pilaf.

After the show, guests guzzled free cocktails as Marc Ronson played a set in the Turbine Hall that lasted well into the morning – certainly one way to reinvent the space.

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