A Guide to Kythnos by Sigurd Larsen

Danish architect Sigurd Larsen’s relationship with the Cycladic island of Kythnos began almost by chance. In 2018, he set out to find a plot for a summer house, with only one requirement: it had to be easily accessible from Athens throughout the year. Captivated by the island’s raw beauty, he instantly fell for a site overlooking the peninsula and the uninhabited islet of Piperi. That encounter sparked not only the creation of the distinctive Piperi House, but a lasting relationship with the island’s landscape and culture. 

Inspired by the forms and materials of traditional Cycladic architecture, Piperi House reinterprets the strict geometry of traditional island villages: the distinct whitewashed cubes and maze-like, stepped alleys that have become synonymous with the region. These forms, which evolved during the Ottoman period as pragmatic responses to the island’s climate and history, were designed to withstand heat, deflect the harsh Meltemi winds and defend against piracy. Drawing on the paradoxical geometry of M.C. Escher’s Relativity lithograph, Piperi House plays with perspective. Its staircases form an infinite loop through the building, allowing movement above, below and through, without a clear beginning or end. The house’s sculptural white form sits in quiet juxtaposition with the island’s arid landscape of burnt browns and dusty greens. 

After completing Meraki Studios, a boutique hotel project on Crete earlier this year, and The Outdoor House on Kythnos, Larsen is now working on his fourth project among the islands. Collaborating closely with local craftsmen and sourcing stone from the island itself, Larsen subtly integrates his minimalist sensibility into Kythnos’s architectural fabric with quiet precision. 

Under two hours from Athens, Kythnos has long been a favourite weekend escape among Athenians. Yet sustained by agriculture, fishing and craftsmanship, the island has remained largely off the radar of mass tourism. Here, Larsen shares his ultimate guide to Kythnos.

What first drew you to the Cyclades and what keeps you coming back?

SL Honestly it was completely random, I didn’t have a long history with Greece at all. In 2018, I was looking for a plot to build a summer house on. Once I started looking into it I couldn’t believe how insanely beautiful the properties that were for sale in Greece at that time. My main criteria was that I could reach the island from Athens airport. Many smaller islands only have summer flights, so I wanted a place I could visit even in winter without an endless journey. I literally drew a big circle around Athens airport on the map, which included many islands. It just so happened that the second island that I visited was Kythnos and it was love at first sight.

Do you have a favourite island? What makes it special?

SL Kythnos is my favourite. It’s amazing how easy it is to get to and from Athens, yet in terms of tourism, it remains relatively underdeveloped. The island is full of natural beauty and has a very unique character. Its most famous sight is Kolona: a 240m sandbar connecting Kythos to an islet, with turquoise water on both sides. There are also hot springs, sea caves and ancient ruins.

Do you have a favourite building on the islands?

SL There’s a very typical cycladic village called Chora. It’s a white labyrinth of staircases and narrow alleys. No one knows exactly how old it is because the island has been inhabited for a millennia. Some of the houses could be thousands of years old but it has been continuously inhabited so it’s a bit hard to tell.

Has working there changed the way you experience the Cyclades?

SL Absolutely. Having projects on the island gives me a reason to keep coming back throughout the year. I’m currently working on a third house on the west side of Kythnos, so I have a constant excuse to visit. Maybe I’ll just keep starting new projects so I never run out of excuses to return. 

Where can you find the creative community spending their time?

SL Kythnos has sister relations with Mariupol in Ukraine, so there’s been a steady flow of Ukrainian artists visiting the island in recent years. There’s a summer arts festival called Kythniale, organised by members of the local community. It brings together artists for exhibitions, performances and workshops that take place all over the island.  

Where is your favourite view on the island? 

SL We have an incredible view to the east from the house, where we watch the sunrise and also the moon rise. As the sun sets behind us, the moon slowly rises out of the ocean in front of us, it’s unbelievably beautiful. Because it’s so remote and dark out there, the night sky is filled with stars. Most evenings we climb up onto the roof at night and lie flat, just staring up at them.  

Where’s a good day trip from Kythnos? 

SL On a clear day, we can see 12 islands from Kythnos: Serifos, Sifnos, Milos, Kea, Syros, Tinos, Andros, Mykonos, Paros, Gyaros, Delos and Antiparos. Each has their own character and landscape. It’s fun to go over to one of the nearby islands, then look back across the water to spot the house from a distance. One of the islands closest is Serifos, where there’s a striking white monastery. Looking back from there our house just looked like a tiny dot!

Where is your favourite place to swim? 

SL Kythnos has over 90 beaches, many of them sandy. There are so many little coves to explore that it’s easy to find one all to yourself. Most people end up discovering their own private beach where they can swim alone. That’s quite magic!

Where do you go for a great meal?

SL A family run restaurant called Archipelago in Kanala, which is also the most beautiful town in Kythos. Pelegra in Driopida makes Greek food with a modern twist. Arapi in Merichas is perfect for when you first arrive off the ferry. They serve fish fresh from the market next door and the owner makes the best wine on the island. 

Have you got a favourite coffee shop? 

SL Greece actually has a more sophisticated tea culture, especially in the villages. There’s a lot of mountain tea grown here: sage tea with local honey is particularly good. I do love coffee, though. Annezio in the port serves great coffee and pastries.  

Best ice cream? 

SL Homemade popsicles from Le Ble bakery, which also makes a great freddo espresso.

What would your perfect day in Kythnos look like?

SL The tempo of life here is so relaxed that planning dinner can easily become the whole day! Start at the harbour to pick up fresh fish and groceries from the market, stop by the beach for a coffee, chat with someone there and have a little lunch. Then I’d head back to the house for a long siesta. By the time you wake up it’s time to cook that dinner and that was the day!