Hermès FW24 Second Chapter: A Bold New York Minute

Artistic director Nadège Vanhée soaked up the energy of the show's New York destination, infusing it into the bold and bright collection.

In notes that accompanied Hermès’s runway show on Thursday night, the maison described its collection as “the second chapter” of its women’s fall-winter 2024 presentation. The first chapter, exhibited in Paris in the winter, was dark and elemental, with a constant rainfall underscoring the show.

Chapter two was a change of scene: New York, at the Pier 36 venue on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, where traffic lights dangled from the ceiling. It was a change of pace, too: more energetic and bold, featuring bright colors and patterns. Artistic director Nadège Vanhée’s nautical nods, including a leather mariner’s cap and a double-breasted pea coat, collided with signature equestrian references, such as boots and sports jackets.

If one were to capture the show in an item of clothing, it could well be a pair of red leather trousers: immaculately tailored with a gentle flare, made from the material Hermès is best known for, yet executed in a vibrant color one doesn’t readily associate with the maison.

All of it – the traffic light scenography, the clashing reds and yellows on the runway, the frenetic soundtrack including Philip Glass’s “The Grid” – spoke to a change in direction, a shift away from the reserved and understated part of town and toward a livelier destination.

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