Hermès SS25: The Art of the Reveal
Nadège Vanhée brought the atelier to life with a theatrical collection, blending sheer, fluid fabrics with Hermès' signature leather.
Images courtesy of Hermès with photography by Filippo Fior
Hermès set the scene for its Spring-Summer collection by drawing attention to the runway as a stage of sorts. Dividing the room were large walls that resembled behind-the-scenes panels of a play set. Show notes mentioned the atelier, “the space of creation, of optimism, of absorption,” as a source of inspiration for this collection, and there was a sense of theatre in the idea of bringing the backstage center-stage.
Artistic director Nadège Vanhée’s collection was characterized by ‘the reveal,’ through sheer mesh dresses, crop tops and fluid trousers which felt like new, less conservative territory for Hermès. They contrasted with the luxurious leather garments customers expect from the maison, as well as covetable shoes and accessories, namely the wood-soled clog sandals and the Birkin à l’enverse bag, which models carried folded up and held tight to their bodies.
Following the final curtain call, Vanhée told Mastermind that she considers those “to be unapologetically creative, people with strong, strong visions” to be her Mastermind. She could’ve been describing those who worked on the collection just as well as those who will ultimately wear it.