IM MEN FW25/26: A Shape-Shifting Debut

Yesterday, the IM Men collection, a new brand launched by Issey Miyake in 2021, made its Paris debut at the historic Le Réfectoire des Cordeliers, a 16th-century convent. Designed by Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the show presented a compelling vision of technical fashion combined with poetic movement, true to Miyake’s legacy.

The venue set the tone: a bright, white space filled with pure light that felt fresh and clean without being clinical. As the show began, the lighting intensified, bathing the scene in an even brighter, whiter glow. Large white robotic arms holding black rotating squares began rotating and tilting, an understated yet mesmerizing element of scenography that added more movement to the space.

The soundtrack began gently, with the soothing sound of rainfall, a subtle nod to previous Miyake shows. Light, dissonant piano chords followed, but as the collection evolved, the music grew more percussive and urgent, mirroring the escalation in the colour of the designs. The looks began in light tones: white, green and grey. But as the show progressed, the colors deepened and became more vibrant. 

The collection was a masterclass in technical wear, featuring architectural silhouettes and conceptual constructions. Jackets with hexagonal shapes, dropped-crotch draped trousers and monk-like collarless shirts evoked a meditative, almost monastic aesthetic – distinctly Miyake and very fitting to the location. One standout look resembled a blanket tied around the shoulders, enhancing that these were clothes to be worn in nature – camping, even.

The finale brought a joyful climax. Models entered the room and halted, then began showcasing the versatility of the collection, unclipping their capes and demonstrating the many ways the garments could be worn. In unison, they then held the capes high and dashed around the room. It was a shape-shifting exploration of technical fashion, blurring the lines between form, function and creativity.