Issey Miyake Men’s SS25: A Gentle Force

Satoshi Kondo presented a graceful and mystical menswear collection, with silhouettes that were substantial, yet light as air.

Issey Miyake staged its SS25 men’s show at Mobilier National, a French institution associated with patrimony, heritage and savoir-faire – all very fitting for the Japanese maison.

Dotted around the building’s courtyard were large white metallic dandelions which swayed in the wind. It was a sign of the lightness that would breeze through the collection, a theme underscored by the show notes, placed on each guest’s seat, which read like a poem:

Gathering the air in motion:
All there is to feel, to hold, to be moved
And to express in form,
Into something that is bright and wind-borne.

The models walked to the sound of sparse pan flutes, sharp metallic notes and a tribal drum beat. By the time the final looks arrived, this soundtrack had developed into something more forceful and driving, yet it was never heavy or overbearing.

The same could be said for the collection, titled “Up, Up and Away”: it was graceful and mystical, rendered in a gentle color palette with spikes of orange or neon yellow. Layers of pleated fabrics, papery cotton and wool built into silhouettes that were substantial, yet light as air.

Artistic director Satoshi Kondo’s vision for the collection was best exhibited in the coats on show. There was a billowy, ethereal raincoat and a monastic Little Red Riding Hood-style cloak. Curiously, some models wore coats as backpacks, straps and all. They trailed behind the models, like ghosts dressed in fabric.

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