Loewe SS25: Weightless Elegance Takes Flight
Jonathan Anderson’s collection blended feather-light fabrics and geometric silhouettes with whimsical touches that defied expectation.
Images courtesy of Loewe
A sense of lightness touched every corner and every fiber of Loewe’s Spring-Summer 2025 show. The space itself was vast and pristine, drawing attention to the sole gesture of set design: a bronze bird by Tracey Emin, The only place you came to me was in my sleep (2017). The sculpture foretold of the clothing to come: agile, delicate, soaring.
The first looks were long, transparent dresses, breezy and floating, structured by crinoline underskirts so that the garments bounced and shifted as the models walked. They were paired with flat shoes, boat shoes and extra long Oxfords – an odd moment of friction typical of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
Another twist: band merch! That is to say, T-Shirts made of feathers which featured portraits of Mozart, Chopin and Bach, as well as artist Manet and Van Gogh’s flowers. (Other feathered garments included suit jackets and bloomers, which altogether compounded the sensation of lightness.)
A trapezoid silhouette recurred throughout the show: in the silhouette of leather jackets which veered outward; structured skirts which maintained a wide circumference around models’ legs as they walked; extremely short collared dresses – so short that they were tops, perhaps? – and in the shape of a bag clutched by several women. The clean and graceful geometry was another sign of Anderson’s quest for perfection, through clothing that is at once exacting and surprising.