Louis Vuitton Cruise 2025: A Lesson in Innovation

Artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière modernised '80s silhouettes with innovative techniques, bringing the decade of opulence back in a refined way.

Beneath the mosaic-tiled ceiling of the Hypostyle Room in Park Güell, Antoni Gaudi’s architectural marvel in Barcelona, Louis Vuitton presented its cruise 2025 collection – a marvel of a different kind.

From a distance, the show’s recurring silhouette was decidedly ‘80s: broad-shouldered tops and jackets (reinforced with shoulder pads) which narrowed toward the hip, like an inverse triangle. Other nods to the decade included were structured dresses, exaggerated volumes, puffy sleeves, oversized earrings and jumpsuits. Models wore their long, sleek hair pulled to the left, and slicked to their skull on the right.

But on closer inspection, it was a more refined undertaking. Take the lace garments: the fabric, ubiquitous in the ‘80s, was in fact individual pieces intricately assembled using metal links, creating a 3-D effect that is pretty from afar and extraordinary up close.

Throughout the collection, artistic director of womenswear collections Nicolas Ghesquière continued his decade-long interrogation of how clothes are made, searching to innovate how they’re embroidered, draped and cut. His melange of textiles was similarly experimental: one short dress – romantic, feminine, billowing – was styled with boots fringed with leather tassels. The clothes clashed and harmonized – like a sumptuous mosaic.

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