Louis Vuitton FW24: Electrifying Celebration

As Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière ventures into a new decade of Louis Vuitton, he brings with him fresh futuristic cuts while honouring his legacy through reworked classics.

A buzz emanated from Louis Vuitton’s FW24 show. It came from the crowd: 4000 guests including France’s first lady Brigitte Macron, Blackpink’s Lisa and double Oscar winner (and former Mastermind cover star) Cate Blanchett. All of whom had gathered to mark Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th anniversary at the helm of the maison’s womenswear collections.

It came from the set, too. Guests arrived to a greenhouse built in the Louvre’s Cour Carrée and a set that felt like an enormous electric grid, complete with erratically searching lights, metallic buzzing sounds and a loud drone circling overhead, its powerful spotlight shining down on the audience. It was all quite electrifying.

At the venue’s center hung an enormous spiky light sphere by artist Philippe Parreno, a flashing sun at the center of the Ghesquière galazy. Perhaps it represented the north star that he has followed in pursuing his imaginative, time-traversing designs.

The first looks consisted of technical wear: polar white windbreakers paired with large gloves shaped like sea anemones. Throughout the show there were pieces reworked from Ghesquière’s previous Louis Vuitton collections, including the bouncy tutu from Fall 2020 and the embroidered redingote jackets of Spring 2018. Travel trunk details – handles, latches, banding and other hardware – were printed both on bags and short dresses. This woman was an explorer, her cheeks red from the cold and her clothing a totem of her voyages.

In the latest issue of Mastermind (buy it here!), Ghesquière said: “I really like the idea of the ‘Vuitton trunk,’ a kind of imaginary trunk that I’m constantly opening and in which I find registers of historical clothing that I like to rework.” The show proved that, just as Ghesquière takes from this trunk, he has made a meaningful addition to it.

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