Louis Vuitton Prefall 2024: Fit For an Art Museum

Artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière made nods to his past work while charting new territory in a vibrant, artful collection.

Where once there was a port for transporting coal down Shanghai’s Huangpu River, now stands Long Museum West Bund, a private art museum designed by Liu Yi-chun of Atelier Deshaus. Its concrete walls and high vaulted ceilings exude power, while serving as a neutral grey canvas for the artworks exhibited within its vast rooms.

It was a fitting space to show Louis Vuitton’s prefall collection, in which artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière made nods to his past work while charting new territory. There were familiar silhouettes and signatures, including strong mini dresses, bomber jackets and parkas with zippers, and statement combat boots. Other looks added a certain softness: fluffy pulls, long skirts with jellyfish-like tendrils that bounced down the runway, or an elegant white dress with a cocooning tulip skirt.

The model Chu Wong, who closed the show in a sculptural black top and billowing trousers, was also responsible for the soundtrack, which featured a voice recording of her in conversation with someone. Her parents were among the guests invited to watch. Too cute!

The show opened with looks made in collaboration with the Beijing-based artist Sun Yitian. Her renderings of colorful inflatable animals – including a pink rabbit, a Dalmatian dog and a rubber duck – featured on coats, dresses, skirts and bags. It added to the energy of this vibrant, artful collection – which was apt, considering the venue.

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