Max Mara FW24: Sensual Delights

Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths drew on the literature of French author Colette for his latest collection

It’s always intriguing when fashion designers mine the fertile field of literature for inspiration. For Max Mara’s FW24 collection, creative director Ian Griffiths drew from the writings of one of France’s greatest authors, Colette. Innovative, sophisticated, intimate: a woman of such stature demands a similarly venerable wardrobe.

There was the signature Max Mara silhouette: long, narrow and draped in a woolen cocoon of a coat. There were camel-colored garments, of course, but they followed looks in a much darker palette than typical, including a stormy grey and deep inky blue.

More unexpectedly, the kimono was repeatedly referenced. There were tops, trousers and coats that tied at the hip. Models wore obi-style woolen bands around their waists. And the construction of some coats featured kimono-style sleeves.

Following the show, I read Colette’s short story Sleepless Nights, which served as a reference text, about a night between two lovers sleeping in a bed that’s really too small to support them. Colette writes of a sensual intimacy connected to body and fabric – a sensation not so far from that one feels while wearing a truly immaculate piece of clothing.

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