Men’s Fall/Winter 2026: A Season Shaped by Uncertainty

Throughout the Fall/Winter 2026 menswear shows in Paris and Milan, designers seemed to return to a common fear: the uncertain times that we live in. Their way of expressing this anxiety took different forms: through timeless shapes, enduring fabrics, and poetic stagings.

Prada: “Before and Next”

Muccia Prada and Raf Simons made durability a central focus of their Autumn/Winter 2026 collection. “Within uncomfortable, unpredictable times, clarity provides assurance,” the show notes read. The clothing appeared simple, yet its construction was precise and body-conscious. Coats made from wool, shiny leather or gabardine were attuned to the models’ silhouettes. This sense of strength and vulnerability carried through to the styling. For example, several models wore delicate square necklines, known as ‘colliers,’ beneath structured wool coats. The designers completed certain silhouettes with asymmetrical-looking gavroche and rain hats. But what really stood out were the vibrant touches of color: yellow, purple and red provided fresh punctuation to their somber story.

Louis Vuitton: Sophisticated Dresser 

Louis Vuitton’s latest menswear show took place at Le Jardin d’Acclimatation. Within a structure designed to look like a wooden freight crate, the brand (in partnership with Not A Hotel) constructed DROPHAUS, a modernist house complete with a Pierre Paulin sofa and a deep stone bathtub. The runway was real grass, adding to the sensory experience. Williams offered a revised take on dandy with a timeless, handsome wardrobe that included classic tailoring and trompe-l’œil details. The models’ jacket shoulders were hand-embroidered with crystal embellishments, which caught the light as they walked, appearing like water droplets.

Dior Homme: Youthful Air

While Jonathan Anderson took relatively few risks with his debut menswear collection last season, his Dior may have entered its phase of teenage turmoil. The designer averts his gaze from Dior’s archives, refocusing on what the young Dior man would wear while shopping on Avenue Montaigne. There, visitors can find a plaque dedicated to Paul Poiret, who was a key inspiration for the collection. Of these men, the show notes explain: “Joy and spontaneity guide their choices, and here they are now, with spiky yellow hair, embroidered epaulettes and an air of eclectic opulence.” The yellow hair, made by Guido Palau, is a direct reference to Poiret’s yellow dress. From the sequin tops, cropped Bar jackets and massive down coats, masculine and feminine codes merge. Mindful yet rebellious, his aristo-youth turns the codes of formality into fun daily attire. 

Yohji Yamamoto: Petits Protégés/Motion of Feelings

In a poetic show, Yamamoto models faced obstacles as they walked down the runway. They were invited to either punch double-end boxing balls or give them a gentle caress. This season’s Yamamoto man isn’t afraid to express his emotions, the designer explained backstage to WWD. Army-inspired garments provided protection, so while he may wear workwear, he has a sensitive side. With a dye effect, he styled the collection layering tones of greys, not letting one glimpse of skin show. Last season, Yohji-san explored how humans must find other ways than war to engage with each other. Perhaps, simply expressing one’s feelings is a start.

Junya Watanabe: “The Best Dressed”

The Tokyo-based designer chose to express complex characters through simple styling. The show notes explained that style is more than a matter of getting dressed: it’s not a measure of the clothes but rather the man who wears them. To the sound of old café jazz, Watanabe told the story of who this man could be: A visionary painter, a trumpet player or the mad hatter. He is best dressed with his bowler hat, a tuxedo filled with patchworks and detailed mismatched buttons on his vest. The collection featured multiple collaborations, such as Stüssy American traditional wear project, Spiewak safety jacket, New Balance sneakers and the ongoing formal wear project with Levi’s. 

Willy Chavarria: “Eterno”

Staged and choreographed by Damien Jalet, the Willy Chavarria men’s show was a living film: the set, music, costumes and action transported guests into an elevated telenovela. A prologue featured two people texting on Grindr, organizing to meet at the afterparty. The show then opened with a performance by Mon Laferte, before Jalet introduced dynamic choreography as the looks began to flow, all to theatrical effect. Chavarria, a deeply political designer, introduced slim trousers, quite unlike his previous collections. Of note was the colourful tailoring and vibrant red touches on the para tocado hats, shoes and furry bags. He dedicated the collection to all those who believe in the power of love. 

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: “Let’s get out of the black hole” 

With a soundtrack featuring “Love Me, Please Love Me” by Michel Polnareff (mixed by Ugo Nardini), Rei Kawakubo’s latest collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus was shaped by ideas of protection and positivity. Featuring a more neutral colour palette than last season, the models wore layers of black, silver, and grey. While perhaps less avant-garde than previous outings, its uniqueness could be found in details, shapes and the tailoring of men’s suits: school boy shorts, low-rise trousers and cropped vests looked like they’d been sliced apart. Masks made by Shin Murayama were reminiscent of American football helmets – or perhaps Hannibal Lecter’s face cage. Messages clearly written on the shoes, “Live Free,” “Strong Will,” “Wear Your Freedom,” “My Energy Comes From Freedom,” – were uncharacteristically direct expressions of Kawakubo’s creative approach. The show closed with bright white looks, as if the models were there to guide us out of the black hole we live in. 

Hermès: Final Lines

On Saturday evening in Paris, Véronique Nichanian presented her very last collection after 37 years at the helm of Hermès menswear collections. From glossy crocodile to gentle flower details on the back of the grey coats, she presented a variation of the classic suit with her classic savoir-faire. Nichanian has always insisted on the sensuality of her long-lasting materials. Looking at the models walking in their luxurious coats, some lined with white fur, one could almost feel their delicateness on the skin. At the end of the show, Hermès paid tribute to Nichanian, among most enduring creative directors working today, by featuring clips of her taking bows through the past decades. It was a beautiful final note, leaving a clear path for Grace Wales Bonner to begin her journey as the new menswear creative director next season.