Prada FW24: Dressing For a Storm

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' show was an exercise in control, set against a worrisome atmosphere

Beneath the glass runway of Prada’s FW24 womenswear show, a babbling brook flowed across stones, and leaves lay strewn over grass and soil. Above the glass, something less tranquil was brewing. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a meticulous collection, an exercise in control in contrast to uncontrollable mother nature. Mrs Prada has spoken of creating characters with her clothes, and this season’s woman was strict.

The clothing was feminine: all bows, pointy-toe pumps, skirts and dresses, with barely a trouser in sight. For the Prada die-hards, there were plenty of references to ’90s collections. One silhouette paired playful, brightly colored cropped wool cardigans and tops with structured black skirts and military officer-style hats – a portrait of a girl on the brink of womanhood.

This sense of life on the brink came through in the soundtrack, too. The nostalgic ’60s R&B song “Anyone Who Knows What Love is (Will Understand)” by Irma Thomas ended in white noise and menacing, eerie sounds that lead into the pulsating electronic beat of Tzusing’s “4 Floors of Whores.” It created a worrisome atmosphere, as if we had strayed from comfort into a harsher unknown, the frontier between the two as fragile as glass. The final looks were dresses and coats  in water-resistant fabric – perfect for an impending storm.

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